Used turbocharger: how to buy the right one
To buy the right used turbocharger, match the manufacturer part number on the turbo to your exact engine code, not just your car model, because one model can carry several different turbos. Then check the unit itself: the shaft should spin freely with only slight end float, and the compressor and turbine blades should be clean and undamaged. A turbo is one of the higher value parts on a modern diesel or small petrol engine, so a used genuine unit from a known donor car is worth doing properly.
Why does the engine code matter more than the car model?
A single model is usually sold with several engines, and even one engine family can run different turbos for different power outputs or emissions standards. A 2.0 diesel Kuga, for example, has a different turbo from the 1.6 diesel in the same body. The engine code is the short alphanumeric stamp on the block that identifies the exact engine, for instance OM651 on a Mercedes, N47 on a BMW (see our N47 engine guide) or DV6FC on a Peugeot or Ford 1.6 diesel. Find yours on the engine, in the V5C, or through our engine codes page. Match the turbo to that code first, and then to the part number, and you remove most of the risk of a wrong purchase.
| Make | Example engine code | Where the code appears |
|---|---|---|
| Mercedes | OM651 | Stamped on the block, listed on the turbo part number label as A651... |
| BMW | N47 | Stamped on the block near the gearbox join |
| Peugeot, Citroen, Ford 1.6 diesel | DV6FC (BHZ) | On a sticker on the timing cover and in the V5C |
| Audi, VW, Seat, Skoda | Three or four letters, e.g. CGLC | On the timing belt cover and the service book sticker |
How do I confirm the turbo part number?
Every turbo carries two numbers: the vehicle manufacturer's number and the turbo maker's own number from Garrett, BorgWarner (KKK), IHI or Mitsubishi. Either one works as a match. On our listings the number in the title is copied from the plate on the unit, so a search for your number finds it. The plate is usually a small metal tag riveted to the compressor housing, and the vehicle number is often also cast or stamped into the housing. If the plate is unreadable on your old turbo, send us your registration and we will identify the correct unit from your engine code.
Do I need the complete turbo or just the core?
Most of the turbos we list are complete units: the turbo itself with its actuator, wastegate or variable geometry mechanism, and often the oil feed and return flanges. That is what you want for a straight swap, because the actuator is calibrated to the unit it came with. Some listings are for the related parts only, such as the vacuum actuator, the boost solenoid valve or the oil feed pipe, which is useful if your turbo is sound but a control part has failed. An electronic actuator on a modern diesel is expensive on its own, so a complete used unit is usually the better buy than mixing and matching.
What should I check on a used turbo before fitting?
Three checks tell you most of what you need to know. First, spin the compressor wheel by hand: it should turn freely and smoothly with no grinding. Second, push and pull the shaft: a tiny amount of in and out movement is normal, but there should be no side to side play and the wheel must never touch the housing. Third, look at both wheels for chipped, bent or eroded blades, which point to debris having passed through. A light oil film inside the inlet is normal; pooled oil suggests worn seals. We inspect every turbo before listing and photograph the wheels and the plate.
Does the donor car's history matter?
Yes. A turbo from a car that was written off for body damage or an electrical fault has usually been working normally up to the day it stopped. A turbo from a car with engine trouble carries more risk, because metal debris or oil starvation in the engine can damage the turbo as well. We know the donor car for every part we sell, so ask us why the car was broken and we will tell you. Our guide to checking a used engine applies the same thinking to the whole unit.
What should I fit or renew alongside a used turbo?
Turbos rarely fail on their own; something upstream usually killed the old one. Before the new unit goes on, change the engine oil and filter, renew or thoroughly clean the oil feed pipe, because carbon in the feed starves the bearings, and check the oil return pipe is clear. Clean or replace the crankcase breather, clear the intercooler and pipes of oil and any debris from the old turbo, and fit a new air filter. Prime the turbo with clean oil through the feed port, then let the engine idle for a few minutes before driving. Skipping these steps is the most common reason a good used turbo fails early.
What we usually have in stock for turbochargers
Stock changes daily as cars arrive and parts sell, so the engine and fuel collection is the place to see what is live right now. Complete turbos and turbo parts we have listed recently include:
- Jaguar XF X260 2.0 diesel turbocharger, G4D36K682AE
- Mercedes E220 W212 OM651 turbocharger, A6510904080
- Mercedes B200 W245 2.0 diesel OM640 turbocharger, A6400902580
- BMW 218d F22 N47 turbocharger, 8518204
- BMW 316d and 318d E90 E91 LCI N47N turbocharger, 741785
- Peugeot 308 1.6 diesel DV6FC turbocharger, 820760
- Ford Kuga 2.0 TDCi 163 turbocharger, 9671413780
- Ford Focus 1.0 EcoBoost turbocharger, 5342005303
- Vauxhall Zafira Tourer 2.0 diesel turbocharger, 55570748
- VW Tiguan 2.0 TDI turbocharger, 53039700139
We also list actuators, boost solenoid valves and oil feed pipes for many of the same engines. If your turbo is not showing, send us your registration and the engine code and we will check the yard.
Buy with confidence
Every turbo we sell comes off a known donor car at our Doncaster yard, is inspected before listing and is photographed so you see the actual unit, not a stock image. Tracked UK delivery is included on every order and is free on most parts; panels, engines and gearboxes carry a charge shown on the product page. Order before 2pm on a working day for same day dispatch. If a part is not right, you have 30 day returns. Send us your registration and the part you need and we will confirm fitment before you buy. Parts worth your trust.
Frequently asked questions
How do I match a used turbocharger to my car?
Match it to your engine code first, then to the part number on the turbo plate, because one model can carry several different turbos depending on engine and power output. Either the vehicle manufacturer's number or the turbo maker's number will do. If you cannot read the plate, send us your registration and we will identify the correct unit.
What should I check on a used turbo?
Spin the compressor wheel: it should turn freely with no grinding. Push and pull the shaft: slight end float is normal, side to side play is not, and the wheel must never touch the housing. Look at both wheels for chipped or bent blades and check the inlet for pooled oil. We photograph and inspect every turbo before listing.
Does the donor car's history matter for a turbo?
Yes. A turbo from a car broken for body or electrical damage was usually working normally when it came off the road. One from a car with engine trouble carries more risk, because debris or oil starvation can damage the turbo too. We know the donor for every part we sell, so ask us.
What should I fit alongside a used turbo?
Change the oil and filter, renew or clean the oil feed pipe, check the return pipe is clear, clean the breather and intercooler pipes, and fit a new air filter. Prime the turbo with oil before starting and let the engine idle before you drive. These steps protect the new unit from whatever killed the old one.
Is a complete turbo better than just an actuator or core?
For a straight swap, a complete unit with its own actuator is the safer choice, because the actuator is calibrated to that turbo. If your turbo is sound and only a control part has failed, a used actuator, solenoid valve or oil pipe can be the cheaper fix. Check the listing title and photos to see what is included.